Gulf Shores National Seashore

Gulf Shores National Seashore is the 2 protective barrier islands that protect the eastern edge of Mississippi and the western panhandle of Florida.     It was foggy as we left Topsail Hill and slowly crawled thru the growing throng of cars starting to fill the streets in Destin and groups of teens already heading to the beach.  In Navarre we turned south and drove out onto Santa Rosa Island and Navarre Beach.  Between the small beach towns were the open areas of foggy white dunes and struggling clumps of sea oats.  Wind blown sand edged out onto the roadway as we entered the vast emptiness of the National Seashore.  Six miles inside the boundary sign we finally reached the campground check-in building.   Once settled, H lost no time in wanting to get out and explore – after all – we’ve never been here before!   With the Gulf of Mexico on one side and the Pensacola Bay on the other, this long narrow band of sand at the end of the island encompasses the restored Fort Pickens and its adjoining buildings and (of course!) fishing pier.  Fort Pickens was built between 1829 and 1834 and used until 1947. Interesting facts about the fort include: it took over 21.5 million bricks and was built by slave labor brought in from New Orleans.  Union soldiers manned Fort Pickens and the Confederate soldiers held Pensacola on the mainland during the Civil War.  In 1884, Geronimo was held prisoner there.  The one corner of the fort was destroyed when a fire began in the warehouse area reached a black powder magazine that contained 8,000 lbs of powder. The explosion showered debris 1.5 miles away! 

 

From the fishing pier you could easily see the opposing shoreline and see the large gray hulk that was some kind of Naval vessel, and to the left a tall black stack that could be a lighthouse.  In that dark shoreline silhouette we knew there was the Naval base, the National Naval Aviation Museum, another fort and the town of Pensacola!  According to H’s GPS, the Naval Air Museum was 1.9 miles from the campground.  By road it was 25 miles!  On the way, we passed thru “historic” downtown Pensacola and paused in the waterfront park to wonder at the large red ocean vessel that was tied securely to the dock.  It was the Boa Deep C – an ocean construction ship registered to Norway!

 Four of the famous Navy Blue Angel jets still hang high in one huge glassed in atrium in the museum and the collection of over 150 airplanes and exhibits still shine and look new. A whole new Hangar of planes has been added since we visited last!  We were extended an invitation to experience being on the flight deck of an aircraft carrier - complete with the wind, the smell of jet full and the roar of  helicopters and jets landing and screeching to a halt with the aid of one small hook and one REALLY big rubber band!  All from the comfort of a theater seat!  

 

Near the Museum we found the 1859 Pensacola Lighthouse with its tall black stack atop the white base and the well-preserved keeper’s house nestled by its side. After touring the vast collection of airplanes in the Naval Museum we were both too pooped to even think of climbing up in that lighthouse!  

Just a short way down the road was the next on our list of places to explore. The 2^nd of the 4 forts in the area – Fort Barrancas, was built between 1839 and 1844.     From this fort you could the white sand that outlined the edges of the tip of Santa Rosa, the dark bulk of Fort Pickens, the white houses that are home to the out buildings and museum and the trees that sheltered the cozy loop of campers in the campground-behind the ever present, protecting dune!

Since we’ve literally come to the end of the road – the realization that we have no choice but to head north towards home has set in.  Across the wide spance of the 2 bridges to the mainland, we maneuvered thru Pensacola to Ft Rt 29 and then Rt 31.  From then on it was Interstate 65 in the northbound lane.

Florida Panhandle

Apalachicola

I feel like we’re going backwards!  And I keep saying: “ the last time we were here” or “See Previous Florida Blog”! We’ve come down thru Alabama to the panhandle before and worked our way around and then over to Ocala.  We’re doing it all in reverse – Chiefland and the “springs” state parks and now up and around the “big bend”, thru the deep woods that feels just like Michigan.  Past the signs for Wakulla Springs State Park where we met Dick and Sharon the year we went to Texas!  Past the road to Tallahassee where we toured the capitol building!   We even stopped in Apalachicola to stretch our legs and revisit the quaint 1880 shops, fishing docks and parks. 

Cape St. Joseph State Park

 And now Mexico Beach!  This small beachfront town has added a few more tall 2 and 3-story, pastel houses that stand at attention on their stilted supports behind the dunes that line the white sandy beaches.  There are a few more shops and seafood eateries and there were more folks on the beach by the fishing pier that still stretches out into the blue green gulf.  Rustic Sands RV Resort looked a little different – there were no cute inflatable Santa Claus in a bathtub or his sleigh and reindeer or any other Christmas decorations this time!  Remember - We were here on our way down in December before.   On our day out exploring we wandered back along Fl Rt 98 and then out onto Cape San Blas to the St Joseph Peninsula State Park.  It was a long thin strip of land with a quiet cove and small harbor with a boat launch and small store.  Across the bay you could see the mainland and Mexico Beach.  I “earned” my state park patch when we walked the beaches, and explored the back roads of the park but the campground roads were way to small to navigate comfortably if we had been pulling a trailer, so we won’t return.

It’s Spring Break in Florida.  Finding a campsite anywhere along ANY coast in this state is now hard to come by.  We were hoping for either St Andrews State Park at Panama Beach or Henderson State Park near Destin but both gorgeous parks were full.  Topsail Hill Preserve used to be a RV Resort but the state took it over several years ago and H got us 2 nights at the last moment!  Just what we needed – 2 nights!  Well groomed, yet woodsy, each campsite had full hookups plus cable, a white globe yard light, cement pad and a patio. The main park areas included several small fishing lakes, a swimming pool, Camp store, gazebo with wifi and Azaleas!   A half-mile winding, narrow blacktop roadway led to the dunes that always border the beautiful Gulf.  Only bikes or those who chose to walk or the campground shuttle were allowed on this road.    The first time we ventured down this way, it kept getting colder and colder and foggier and foggier, the closer we got to the dunes.  Sea fog had rolled in!  It gave an eerie white glare to the entire sandy scene – or was it really snow?  Later that day the sun had burned thru it and the sky was now a bright deep blue reflecting off of the pale blue green sparkling water.  The last remnants of any fog were just a puff in the distance.  The gentle waves and rippled sandy bottom made a dancing kaleidoscope on the water.   Splashing thru some deeper areas we reached a shallow ledge and played like small children on holiday instead of two old retirees with bad backs and bad knees!

Destin was 12 miles to the west.  8 years ago this was a small seaside town with a quaint little harbor area that had the neatest lighted boat parades at Christmastime!  They still have the parades, however the harbor has turned into an entire

Destin Fl.

shopping mall - complete with entertainment, a light house, bars and restaurants.  There are now 2 tall towers for zip lining from one end to the other and lights are strung everywhere.  The boat docks are still gaily lit and the condos across the waterway shine in the setting sun.  And then there’s the traffic!

We’ve only got 2 more days on this gorgeous “Emerald Coast” before we must head north.  We are going to go to the very end of the road before we must go tho!  It is a long way from Topsail to Ft Pickens campground in the National Seashore at the end of Santa Rosa Island.  It might take all morning to get there!

Along the Gulf of Mexico

Boardwalk to Suwanne River

Florida St Rt 316 led us thru tall pine forests and past fancy horse ranches outlined with black, 4 board fences and dotted with grazing horses or large herds of black and brown cattle.  North of Chiefland on a back road was the Suwannee River Hideaway - a Passport America Campground.  We had stayed there several years ago on one of our trips south.  Of course the temps were cooler then and we did have a nice corner spot to park on.  This time we were

Suwannee River

directed to the back of the park and it was like parking in an open field that was covered with sand hills full of biting red ants. The brochure said wifi and cable but the cable was still iffy at best and the wifi was only available in the clubhouse and kept cutting out.  Last time we rode our little bikes out on the 1800 ft boardwalk that led to the Suwannee River and we had to check it out again.  This time we walked the long wooden bridge that had railings made of those thin steel cables.  I could not walk and talk at the same time for fear of falling off the walkway!   All the rain that has drenched the state of Georgia and the Okefenokee Swamp has now drifted downstream and has flooded the banks all along the way - - including the area beneath this boardwalk!  At the rivers edge, the floating dock was still floating but the steps that led to it were under the tannic colored water! 

Sunset at Cedar Key

In December, Cedar Key is not full of tourists and is colder and grayer. Not so in March!  The streets were crowded with cars and pedestrians. Families filled the small beach.  Our usual upstairs café was closed so we chose the bigger, more expensive 2-story restaurant in the big brown building that sat next to the boat launch and overlooked the gulf.  Bad choice.  The service in the upstairs section was so slow and we were so ignored that when the waiter finally came and said that the printer was broken and our order had not been completed yet - we chose to get up and leave.  Luckily, we found a back street grill sitting on the edge of a bayou and ordered 2 grouper sandwiches and enjoyed them thoroughly!

Fanning Springs

Manatee Springs State Park campground is partially shut down due to construction but the young lady at the gate allowed us a 15-minute pass to drive thru the park.  We had camped here several times in the past and it still holds lots of great memories.  We strolled across the playground and then down by the springs, which was also over its banks and over the cement sidewalks.  Since it was the weekend and a very warm day, it was still full of kids and families.  

Fanning Springs State Park is just downstream from Suwannee River Hideaway and is the nearest fresh water spring.  After enjoying the sparkling blue water of Salt Springs so much, we were so looking forward to cooling off in this spring.  The springs were closed!   The short quarter mile run to the river was now a dark brown mess because the run was coming FROM the Suwannee and flooding the once aqua blue spring!  The large orange barrels that were strung across the opening to the run to keep swimmers in the spring could not keep out the mess.   Docks and walkways were underwater and covered with slimy green algae. 

Our choice now was to spend an afternoon in the small oval inground pool at the park.  While it was definitely not Olympic quality, it filled the need for splashing in cool clear water once more before leaving Florida. 

The week has come and gone.   Our tan train is to head around the “Big Bend” section of Florida – around that giant curve that leads from the “Nature Coast” to the “Emerald Coast” of the panhandle.

Springtime at the Spring

“Back to the Forest!”   Our 2014/2015 Winter Tour of Florida has come full circle once more.  Most times on our way home the campground is full but this time site #72 was open and ours for a week.  Central Florida had gone from spring to almost full-blown summer with temps reaching 90 and above and only sliding into the high 60s at night.  The heater was put away and the windows left open each night.   Each afternoon the air conditioner was cranked on. 

Within an hour of getting settled in our spot at the end of the curved road in the campground, D&S arrived to inspect our new traveling home.   What a treat!  Giggles and laughs and hugs were shared before and after a thorough inspection of my kitchen, dining room and ample living room!   Since it was a long trip back to the far side of Ocala, they cut their visit short and we promised to hug once more before we hit the road and moved to our next designation.   But, before they left, we showed them the beautiful clear water and deep turquoise blue crevices of the springs.

 

One afternoon, H and I took off for Palatka, the town about 24 miles north of the park and found the Palatka Skeet Club so H could finally get his gun out from under the couch.   A nice little club down a dead end road - next to a small airport with helicopters and small planes coming and going while the half dozen men were out with their shotguns aimed high at those bright orange disks that kept whizzing out across the field that was speckled with even more orange.  It was a strange sight for this amateur observer who was watching it all from the comfort of the truck.  Since it was a VERY warm day, H only shot one round but did very well indeed.  He only missed 2 out of 25 and he hasn’t shot skeet since way last summer! 

Our other afternoons were spent down at the springs, aka: “the pool” or “the beach”!  Our kayaks were slid into the water only once in the morning to see the manatees but our hot sweaty bodies were slid into the springs almost every day – sometimes by noon!  Salt Springs has 3 deep springs that send up millions of gallons of fresh crystal clear water each day.  Each deep blue dark crevice is usually occupied by a swarm of silver sided Mullet that try to keep the algae from sticking to the sides of the huge boulders.   SPFB – since we are here each year – you’ve seen our photos of the springs and fish and manatees!  We’ve never been here so late in the season tho and have not enjoyed the water this much.  After our daily swim we perch on the wall and watch others take their turn at cooling off.  Our second weekend there, the basin was full of weekenders (and probably void of fish!)  The open area outside the string of buoys was just about as full of anchored boats and their occupants who were also in the water trying to escape the heat.  No fish in the springs - no doubt, no manatees out there either!

 

One more chance to hug Dick  came when we all met for an early dinner at Logan’s Roadhouse in Ocala.  While Sharon and I shopped at Joann’s, the boys went to Best Buy and worked the deal of the week.  Dick wanted a new desk chair but the store only had a broken floor model in the color he wanted.  H finagled a dirt-cheap deal and D only needed to buy a new screw to fix the wounded chair.  

Now it was time to say goodbye to our newest friends, Larry and Chris from North Carolina.  They are the new kids to the camping scene in Florida and it was so fun to share some of the fun things to do and see on the back roads of the state.  If they ever get to Michigan they know who to call. 

From Salt Springs in the Ocala Forest we are heading west to Chiefland and the Suwannee River Hideaway Campground.

Mt Dora

Sun set at Trimble Park

Find the woodpecker

Kelly Park, where we stayed after Christmas is an Orange County Campground as is Moss Park in southern Orlando and so is Trimble Park just south of Mt Dora.  This winter we’ve managed to secure time in each of these parks!  Trimble Park has 15 sites (SPFB!) and is a peninsula between two lakes. Previously, site #8 was our favorite but we have now fallen in love with #7!  Our back and side yard was canopied with pine, palm and one huge gnarly live oak – all draped with delicate silver green Spanish moss that glowed when the sunlight danced thru it.  Right by the corner of our bricked patio was a good-sized Magnolia that will be spectacular when it blooms.  There was always a breeze coming off of Lake Carlson that sifted thru our big open windows.  It also brought dropping oak leaves each day that collected on the picnic table or in our shoes that had been left out on the patio!  Sunset was right off the back corner and the water rippled and distorted the pink glow.  One day while H was comfy with his book in his lawn chair and I was sewing at the picnic table I heard the loud call of a woodpecker up above us in the oak tree.  I quipped “ Wouldn’t it be awesome if it were a Pileated?”   H looked up and said it is and there are 2 of them!  It’s a good thing that digital pictures don’t cost much to take or develop as H took a million, trying to get a few good pictures of the large red-capped bird pecking away at the big gnarly tree.

  This year we even managed to ride our little fold up bikes to Mt Dora and back - 8 miles up hill and down, into the wind both ways!  In the 80-degree weather, both of us ached by the time we got back!

 

Last year when we stayed in Trimble, I wrote about the old restored De Haviland seaplane that we saw while exploring downtown Mt Dora.  We were once again down on the docks below the 1883 hotel when H heard the low throaty rumble of the airplane way before he saw it come over the trees on the other side of the lake!  As we stood on the dock, we watched it circle and then drop softly onto the lake and then motor back to the dock.  H talked to the owner/pilot when the returning flight guests had left the plane and we signed up for the next flight!  We learned that the “Beaver” was retired from the Army in 1977 and that it used 25 gallons of aviation fuel per hour of flight and that our flight would be about 25 minutes from take off to landing. On our flight was also a couple from Minnesota.  The rather hefty sized man was directed to sit in the front seat opposite the pilot and his wife was delegated to the rear seat by herself.  H and I shared a bench seat in the middle and had excellent views from both sides below the big wings.  Each of us had large earmuff headphones so we could talk with each other and with John the pilot and could hear him speak with other pilots in the same area.  John talked to us the entire flight and told us about the scenes that were unfolding below us.

Downtown Mt Dora

  We learned that there were 3 types of lakes in this area:  spring fed clear lakes, lakes formed by sinkholes and the 9 Harris Chain of Lakes that are all connected by dug canals and are green due to the run off of all the fertilizers from the neighboring Orange groves in the county.  We flew over Eustis, Tavares, Leesburg and Mt Dora.  John pointed out Ocala National Forest to the north and the Orlando skyline to the south!  He asked if there was anything that we especially wanted to see and in unison, H and I said “Trimble Park”.  As we flew low along the coast line of the peninsula we could see the wide boat dock that spread its fingers out in front of the neighboring campsite and a brief glimpse of the top of our long tan train thru the canopy of silver grays and green.  We saw the short water run behind our site and the channel that led from Lake Carleson to Lake Beauclare.  He flew over the giant mansion that sits on the hill on the opposite side of the lake and found out it is a private home and is on the market for a mere 7 million dollars!  As the previous flight had done, we also circled Lake Dora and gently floated down.  The only way we knew we had “landed” was the spray that flew up and away from the plane’s pontoons as we set down into the small waves.  Returning to base John deftly pointed the nose of the plane into the large “V” in the dock with perfect precision and used the dangling blue ropes to secure the aircraft back just like it was before we left on our exciting venture.  Our flight was over way too soon but we were still on a high from it for the rest of the day!

Spring has arrived in Central Florida.  The roadside grasses are now green and dotted with small pale colored wild flowers. The Cypress trees are covered with the light green haze of new growth.  The pine trees are a brighter shade of dark green instead of winter’s dull dark gray green.  Azaleas, Redbud and Dogwood are now in full bloom! Songbirds wake us (Okay – me!) each morning with their songs.   We know that the northern states are still covered with a thick layer of snow but it is time for us to move a little ways closer to home.  It’s time to move to “back to the forest”.    Salt Springs is next!    

Moss Park --South Orlando Fl.

EG Simmons has Osprey; WP Franklin has Eagles; Moss Park has Sand Hill Cranes.  As soon as we were parked and unhooked, the welcoming committee strutted up our driveway and greeted us with a Jurassic Park loud raucous squawk.  Next a bright red male 

Moss Park

Cardinal perched in the leafy green bush next to our dining room window to say Hello.  Most of the sites in Moss Park are placed well apart and each is thick with tall swaying pine trees, live oaks draped with Spanish moss and stubby palmetto shrubs.  Site #31 was ours for the week and we could even see Lake Mary Jane thru the trees and over the swamp grasses behind them.  While searching for the sand hill crane nest area out in that swamp grass area, I am POSITIVE I even heard 2 alligators calling to each other!  If not gators they were really big frogs!  

One day our venture took us south to St Cloud to meet George, our dear friend and former naturalist/camp host at Moss Park, for lunch at our favorite seafood restaurant, the Catfish Place.  The day was gray and cool as we parked the truck at the lakeside park that we visit on each trip to St Cloud.  As we walked out on the pedestrian dike lined with small Cypress Trees there were several white ducks doing the “butts up” act to look for a tasty morsel under the water.  Further out we cited 2 dusty brown ducks that were obviously uneasy with us interfering with their lunch hour.  Just out past these ducks were 2 dark colored ducks with wide white bands under their dark wings. They kept disappearing under the water when we got too close.  It’s a good thing we took pictures and then had an Audubon Bird book to look them up so we can now tell everyone that we saw both female and male Lesser Scaup Ducks! 

Orlando Eye

Another daytrip took us around the north side of the airport to International Drive in the tourist area of Orlando.  The newest attraction is the Orlando Eye, which is to open early this summer. This 400 ft tall ferris wheel is surrounded by more fancy dining establishments, fancy waterfalls, palm trees and floral gardens.  It is said that on a clear day you can see the coast from up on the top of the wheel.  The “cages” that carry passengers to the very top are stand up cages!  It is said that the ferris wheel will not stop to take on or let off riders.

Monument in Kissimmee

On still another gray day of exploration, we ended up in the historic portion of Kissimmee – west of St Cloud and south of Orlando. We strolled thru the waterfront park and stopped to investigate an unusual stone and rock stacked tower called the Monument of States. There were large granite boulders from the state of Michigan and other articles from various states imbedded in this tall structure.  We’ve also been curious about the new Sun Rail train, a new mode of transportation that is to run thru Orlando.  Almost as soon as we crossed the road from the monument and approached the small quaint train station to ask about it, a fast moving Amtrak train screamed to a halt in front of the busy little station.

We’ve also met Gerry and Marian from Ontario. They are wanderers like us!  She and I are crafters and we happily swapped patterns and ideas!  Gerry and H swapped stories about planes, trailers and boats amongst’ all the rest!

Saturday was dominated by rain, more rain and even MORE rain!  The campground has been turned into one big swamp with narrow ribbons of gravel where the campers were parked.  All those weekend tenters who came expecting a weekend of family fun ended up packing up early and heading for home or at least higher drier ground!  Our exciting part of the day was finally spotting a Sherman Squirrel!  These unusual dark headed creatures are way larger than any regular fox or gray squirrel and are rather imposing for a little rodent!

On Sunday morning while enjoying our morning coffee from the couch and recliner, H glanced thru the back window and hollered “ Babies!”  Outside was the resident pair of Sand Hill Cranes that nest behind our site - out in all that swamp grass.  Darting around and between their tall skinny black legs were their pair of day old babies! Yes – I fed them wheat bread crusts while H kept the camera clicking!  When the crusts were gone, Mom and Dad Crane scratched the damp dark dirt with their sharp beaks and dug up grubs to feed the chicks.  Later on, I caught the little tan bundles napping beside the path that led to the bathhouse!  Sadly a raccoon, a snake or even an alligator will probably end their short sweet life. 

 

Everything is now packed away and Monday is moving day again. Trimble Park has a spot with our name on it!  The weatherman says sunshine and temps in the low 80’s is scheduled for the upcoming week!  Maybe my toes will dry out and not look like big wrinkled white prunes!!

Cocoa Beach

Long Point Campground was a Brevard County Park in the very southern end of the county.  Manatee Hammock is another Brevard County Park – in the very northern part of the county and (SPFB) is right across the Indian River from the Kennedy Space Center.  The campground is older, fairly crowded and is well stocked with folks from Michigan – Jackson, Chelsea and Cheboygan!   Across the way, behind us was a couple from Manistee who even brought their flock of plastic flamingos!  At Christmas time, the pink creatures even “pulled” a sleigh with Santa in it.  What a vision that must have been?

We revisited old “historic” Cocoa Village and a must stop was the Travis Hardware Store that has been in business since 1885.  We think some of the items stacked and stored on the high dusty shelves have been there ever since then!  A true “hardware” store!    In and out of the eclectic boutiques and antique malls proved an adventure in itself. 

Between the mainland of Cocoa and the barrier island, which hosts Cocoa Beach and Port Canaveral is Merritt Island.  All 3 are connected by high arching bridges and beach lined causeways, which are dotted with fishermen, sunbathers and on some days even adventurous kite boarders.  H spotted the bright colored kites sailing up over the mangroves and pulled into one of the parking areas so we could watch.   The fella with the bright red one was zipping back and forth along the edge and putting on quite a good show with his spraying wake and high flipping jumps!  The guys with the blue and green kites must have been beginners since their kites were in the water more than in the sky.

 

Our stay in this area MUST always include a walk on the popular Cocoa Beach.  We usually get to stop and visit with dear friends from home – Lois and Dave who winter in a condo –RIGHT on the beach but they were unexpectedly called back home so that fun part was missing.    Instead we parked down the road at the Lori Wilson Park and walked 2 1/2 miles, past their cluster of condos to the very populated fishing pier in the busiest part of this beach town.  Since it was a warm sunny Sunday afternoon – the beach and water were full of families with throngs of kids.   The multitude of children were either happily digging in the sand or gaily dancing in and out of the foamy waves.   H even had to dodge the waves like one of those tiny darting shore birds as the wet froth advanced and then receded!

At the northern tip of Cocoa Beach is the busy Port Canaveral with cruise ship terminals, pleasure vessel harbors and commercial docks. Up and over the drawbridge that crosses the channel that leads thru a set of locks you can see east towards the ocean and view the busy water highway.  Look on the right of the water and you can see one of the 7 story cruise ships that is secured and waiting for her passengers to board.  Compare her size to the black ocean freighter that is moored on the left of the channel!  Just over the low white building is the top of the Exploration Tower that we “explored” last year!   This time there were 4 mammoth cruise ships in port – including the very popular Disney ship, complete with an oversized Pluto suspended aft.  He was painting the Disney logo on the back of the vessel and was doing a splendid job of it, it seemed. 

Our week in port has come to an end and it’s time to say good-bye to the ocean and move inland.  This time we are heading west to Moss Park – between St Cloud and Orlando.   It’ll be a long drive – 50 miles!